柬埔寨——微笑國度的佛緣
<p><p style="margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-family: 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Hiragino Sans GB', 'WenQuanYi Micro Hei', Verdana, Aril, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 14px; word-break: break-all; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 28.796875px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">柬埔寨,別名坎孛堞,位于中南半島的南部的</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">亞洲</span></span></span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">國家,同</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">越南</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">、</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">老撾</span><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">、泰國等國家相鄰,西南臨泰國灣。</span></span></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-family: 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Hiragino Sans GB', 'WenQuanYi Micro Hei', Verdana, Aril, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 14px; word-break: break-all; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 28.796875px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">吳哥窟</span></span></span></strong></p><p style="margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-family: 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Hiragino Sans GB', 'WenQuanYi Micro Hei', Verdana, Aril, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 14px; word-break: break-all; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 28.796875px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><img data-s="300,640" data-type="jpeg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/08/05/7PzYKTfJ.jpg" data-ratio="0.7509881422924901" data-w="" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; word-break: break-all; max-width: 100%; width: auto; height: auto;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-family: 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Hiragino Sans GB', 'WenQuanYi Micro Hei', Verdana, Aril, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 14px; word-break: break-all; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 28.796875px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">行走于古老的吳哥古城,伸手可觸近千年的壁畫、雕刻,那黑灰色的古老建筑似乎在不斷向人們訴說著吳哥王朝的輝煌歷史。吳哥古跡的最大特色在于全部建筑都用石頭建構,并輔以美輪美奐的浮雕。這座古城讓人想起中國的萬里長城,古人的智慧是如何征服了大自然?為何會選擇在森林里建造城堡,這些精美的壁畫、雕刻是如何鑄成的?一直是個未解之謎。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">人類發(fā)展到今天,唯一不能用科學解釋的或許就是宗教了。前幾日見到新聞里提到,國外的年輕人在吳哥拍裸照,被警察帶走。當?shù)厝嗣裾J為這種行為褻瀆了神靈,違反了宗教文化。在古城內,遇見兩位年輕的和尚,面容精瘦,目光炯炯,一身金黃色的袈裟成為整個景區(qū)最搶眼的一抹亮色,引來眾多游客與之合影。小和尚不厭其煩,始終面帶微笑,雙手合十,即使遠遠望著,也能感受到他所散發(fā)出來的靜氣。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">雖然吳哥是柬埔寨的國家寶庫,但是柬埔寨既無財力,也無人才承擔維護和修繕的工作。于是聯(lián)合國和很多其他國家施以援手,陸續(xù)開始負責修護這些古跡。中國負責修復周薩神廟和茶膠寺,印度負責修復塔普倫寺,日本修復了巴楊寺、斑黛喀蒂寺、十二塔廟、吳哥寺的西參道和北藏經(jīng)閣……正是在全人類的幫助下,吳哥古跡才得以保留并重生。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">高棉的微笑</strong></span></p><p style="" class=""><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"></strong>巴戎寺是吳哥古城的中心,這里最吸引人的便是蜚聲世界的“高棉的微笑”。巴戎寺里有49座佛塔,中間一座最大,高約 40多米,其余48座如眾星捧月般簇擁在它的周圍。每座佛塔的頂部都刻有巨大的四面佛,四個面分別代表慈、悲、喜、舍。穿行在眾多佛塔間,無論身處任何一個角落,都會發(fā)現(xiàn)有帶笑的眼睛注視著你的一舉一動。習慣了都市里的冷漠和壓力,來到這里,似乎全身的壓力都被佛祖掏空了,唯有細心去體會每一處的細節(jié)才不枉辜負這好時光。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">記得在泰國拜四面佛的時候,周邊的氣場之強,全身戰(zhàn)栗抖個不停,如今面對這高棉的微笑,覺得滄海一粟,人真是活得渺小。佛說,有什么理由不微笑呢?在觀看《高棉的微笑》大型表演之后,更對這句話體會深刻。這個古老的國家經(jīng)歷了各種波折,依舊友好善意的對待生活和世界。在世短短幾十年,各種開心或者不開心,正是人生的常態(tài),苦辣酸甜百般滋味都要體會,何不笑看世間百態(tài),微笑常在。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">巴戎寺另一個吸引人的地方是寺內的浮雕壁畫。1200米長的浮雕長廊令人驚嘆地刻畫了11000個人物。寺中央有兩層臺基都有浮雕回廊分為內外兩層,內層回廊主要以神話和宗教故事為題材,刻畫了大量的宗教傳說與神話故事,主要是神與魔的合作與較量。而外層回廊則以現(xiàn)實生活題材為主,從戰(zhàn)場廝殺到生產勞動、集市貿易、漁獵、耕種、雜技、婚嫁等生活圖景應有盡有,這樣世俗化的雕塑題材在吳哥建筑群中是非常少見的。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">塔普倫寺</strong></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 1.1em; font-family: 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Lucida Sans Unicode', 'Hiragino Sans GB', 'WenQuanYi Micro Hei', Verdana, Aril, sans-serif; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; font-size: 14px; word-break: break-all; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); line-height: 28.796875px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><strong style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"><img data-s="300,640" data-type="jpeg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/08/05/D7gcbMGe.jpg" data-ratio="0.6640316205533597" data-w="" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; word-break: break-all; max-width: 100%; width: auto; height: auto;"><br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;"></strong>來吳哥天天看各種各樣的神廟遺跡,多少有些審美疲勞,但塔普倫廟確實讓我們覺得驚艷。這是一座隱沒于叢林中的神廟。很多驢友都是看了《古墓麗影》和《花樣年華》,被這里的神秘所吸引。這些千年的古樹盤知錯節(jié),穿過門廊,石柱,緊緊地纏繞著任何地方,去拓展自己的生存空間。連散落在地上的石塊,都是經(jīng)過細心雕琢的。一方面贊嘆古人如何在森林中開辟這樣的城堡,一方面贊嘆大自然或許才是最終的勝利者。<br style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; -webkit-font-smoothing: subpixel-antialiased; box-sizing: border-box; word-break: break-all;">若沒有法國人亨利·莫哈特在1860年闖入?yún)歉缈叱了?00年的秘密花園,將會是多大的損失和遺憾。</span></p><br></p>